One of my fitness goals is to be able to stand up on a paddle board in Hawaii and keep my balance. I’d also like to be able to pull myself back up on my board after I invariably fall off. Of course, I will need arm strength to paddle around the bay and wave back at the beachcombers. I can now do 8 push ups, so I am on my way.
But let it be said that I’ve never been comfortable in the ocean, even in a kayak. Out in San Simeon Bay in my own yellow boat, I feel like a vulnerable banana who will become food for a Great White shark. When I heard the news report of a sea otter hurdling itself into a kayak, I paddled feverishly for the beach and was dumped by a mini-wave into the sand, where I had my teeth flossed a’ naturale.
But in my fantasy world, I am a fearless surfer. No wave intimidates me. Like a dolphin, I sail up and out of the froth and then dive back deep into it in perfect arcs.
Last weekend, as I looked through my Lumix lens at the biggest waves ever to greet my eyes and listened to the deafening roar of each set of three twenty-footers (or more) pounding the shore with the ferocity and stamina of an angry water god, Nature’s capricious moods thrilled me.
I ordered a smoothie at the little hut by the shore and prayed that a brave surfer would enter the water and create the physical contrast I hoped to capture. The Smoothie God (non-alcoholic) delivered on her promise.
I put my camera on the table and try to drink the last bit of smoothie. No one can hear the rumble I create at the bottom of the glass because the ocean noise is deafening. I can be uncouth!
The surge of wind, water, air, and smoothie tell me, ” Get thee to a gym so you, too, can ride the waves…”
I go immediately.